AJIJIC; FOR THE OLD AND THE YOUNG

Ajijic is another beloved city by Lake Chapala; the town is less than 15 minutes away from Chapala by bus and around 1 hour and 15 minutes walking distance. The direct bus leaves Chapala every 30 minutes and costs around 12 pesos. A smaller bus leaves town every 15 minutes and although it is a little cheaper it takes longer to get to Ajijic.

Ajijic is known mainly for its American-Canadian population who come to this town in search of the perfect weather; during the winter the town is full of the so called “snow-birds” who get away from the harsh weather conditions in their native land. The summer also brings travelers who are trying to escape the intense temperatures of places like Florida and Texas. Many of these seasonal travelers have made of Ajijic their new home thanks to the beauty of this town.

Although very similar to Chapala in nature—cobblestone streets, specialized stores, a lake promenade, and a charming atmosphere—the American-Canadian population has definitely altered the character of this town. The main street, leading directly into the lake promenade, is full of American-owned boutiques, real estate offices, art studios, restaurants, hotels, and bazaars (this street is where the action is). The bazaars in Ajijic are very “yard-sale” like without the yard-sale prices; from linens, to coffee makers, to plasma TV’s, and antique furniture in the thousands of dollars, you can find anything you can think of at a bazaar.

The Lake Chapala Society (LCS) is another addition done to the town of Ajijic; an oasis for American-Canadian expatriates this is the place to go for those who want to socialize with other retirees. LCS organizes hundred of activities for the foreign population of Ajijic; afternoons in the Opera, tours, music events, and fundraisers, are some of the activities organized by LCS. The LCS building also counts with a restaurant, an English library, English movie rentals, and a main office where people can renew their passports, send letters, apply for volunteer work, and much more.

Because of its foreign population, it is at Ajijic where people can find restaurants from around the world; Chinese, Japanese, Argentinean, German, Italian, and Indian food restaurants can be found throughout the town. This is also one of the few towns in the Rivera with a movie theater.

Next to Ajijic you can find the towns of San Antonio and La Floresta; La Floresta is a luxury house complex and aside from expensive houses there is little more. San Antonio on the other hand is more similar in nature to Chapala, however, because of it closeness to Ajijic, a mall, a casino, a modern movie theater, and a Walmart have been built right next to the main highway.

Ajijic is definitely the perfect place for retirees; the weather, the “walk-able” surroundings, the low-priced lifestyle, the economical real-estate, and the English-speaking population offer and facilitate a high-end lifestyle compared to the Mediterranean but without spending the big bucks.

There are dozens of accommodations in both Chapala and Ajijic for those who want to travel to these beautiful towns. In the next blog I will tell you about the types of accommodations available, their prices, locations and ratings so make sure to check back next week.

CHAPALA; FUN, CULTURE & TRADITION

Chapala is a magical town; it is one of those towns where everybody knows each other, a town where “ghosts” still walk its cobblestone streets. Chapala is old and modern at the same time and this is perhaps Chapala’s greatest charm.

It seems to me the town has not changed at all from my childhood days; of course there are new buildings here and there, and as any other city succumbing to the claws of globalization, a Walmart and some other giant corporations have been taking hold of the town’s outskirts (thankfully, the town has not yet yielded to the McDonald’s and Starbucks craze.) However, tradition is still hanging strong; this is a place where specialized stores—places long lost in most of America’s metropolitan areas—still cater to villagers particular needs: A “papeleria” sells school supplies only, ranging from a single map of the Mexican territory to pieces of carton and wrapping paper. A “ferreteria” specializes in anything metal: outlets, cables, sandpaper, pipes… A “perscaderia” sells anything seafood, a “carniceria” supplies customers with pork and cow’s meat, while a “polleria” specializes in poultry. Like these types of business there are many others that specialize in leather, fruits, fresh juices, dairy… The old, and the young, still prefer these places over the Walmarts and Office Depots, a fact that is especially charming for foreigners. These places also close during siesta time which usually goes from 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM depending on the store.

Another advantage for the lack of Starbucks and McDonalds is the abundance of privately owned  restaurants and coffee shops; lining Chapala’s main street, Francisco I. Madero, there are many restaurants that specialize in Mexican Food, restaurants that sell breakfast packages, ice cream shops, and coffee shops. By the promenade overlooking the lake many other bars and restaurants, usually specialized in seafood, become completely packed during the weekends with local and international tourists.

In that same promenade, many concerts, art expositions, health clinics, and political presentations are given throughout the year by the district of Chapala; these events are usually free so make sure to arrive with plenty of time to save good seats. On the second side of the promenade, to the left of the lighthouse, many street vendors sell food, “garrafa” ice cream, toys, traditional candy, and many hand-made products: earrings, weaved handbags, ceramics and talavera, “manta” clothing… These vendors are allowed to sell their products in this little outdoor market seven days a week; their prices are cheaper than privately owned stores and the quality of their products is just as good.

In the last paragraph I gave you some terms that are not exactly “translatable” into the English language so let me introduce you to some of this terms. “Garrafa” ice cream is made in a very traditional, hand-made method, very similar to the way ice cream used to be made hundreds of year ago; in a wooden container with ice, water and salt, a smaller metal jug is introduced where the ice cream mix is added; after hours of hand-mixing, a very traditional, crystallized ice cream can be served. One of the most popular versions of this ice cream is the “diablito” which consists of lemon or mango garrafa ice cream, lemon juice, salt, and chili powder: simply to die for! “Manta” is a fabric similar to linen although a little rougher in texture. Manta clothing is usually completely white or cream colored with hand-made patterns sewn into it. Although original of Spain, “Talavera” ceramic has become a staple of Mexican art. This ceramic is cooked at a higher temperature than traditional ceramic giving it strength and a polished shine; from giant vases to lamps and tableware, talavera ceramics can be found in the traditional white and blue colors or multicolored.

Chapala’s cobblestone streets are still roamed by men on horseback, its lake still sailed by one-man boats. Just by sundown the elderly go out to the main square to gossip about their fellow villagers while the young go to coffee shops to find out the latest rumors. On Sundays the main church is completely crowded with locals while at night the main square fills up with children and their families who come listen to live music. And sometimes, once in a while, people still speak about “La Llorona,” a ghost who still wanders the streets, crying in pain for drowning her children in Lake Chapala.  

A Mexican Town for Everyone

Mexico has many beautiful towns; cobblestone streets, towns built on hills, historical, next to the sea, multiethnic, traditional, cultural, there is a town for everyone, but no other town can be compared with the Chapala Rivera. Built along the coast of Mexico’s biggest lake, Chapala and Ajijic are just two of the dozens of towns built along Lake Chapala’s coast, yet the beauty of these two settlements stand out in the eyes of tourists and locals.

Lake Chapala is a miniscule body of water when compared to North America’s Great Lakes; its surface area is just 1,100 Km² (420 sq. miles) with a maximum depth of only 10.5 meters (34 ft.) But it is this size what gives the temperature very little variation year round; during January, daytime highs average 24˚C (75˚F) while the month of July averages temperatures of 27˚C (80˚F) to 32˚C (90˚F). Because of its beautiful weather, Lake Chapala, especially the town of Ajijic, has become a safe haven for American and Canadian retirees.

Although summer and winter differ very little in temperature, rain gives these two seasons a marked distinction; during summer the tropical nature of this region asserts itself in the 36” of rain during the months of June through September. At this time, the mountains of Chapala are covered in green and the lake tends to increase its level by around two meters. During the winter, the lack of rain transforms the lush landscape to dry and dessert like.

Lake Chapala is located just 25 minutes away from Guadalajara’s International Airport. As I mentioned before many towns surround the Lake, but some of the most prominent ones, aside from the two previously mentioned are Mezcala, San Antonio, La Floresta, San Juan Cosalá, Jocotopec, and Tizapán el Alto. Within the lake there are two islands worth seeing as well: La Isla de los Alacranes and La Isla del Presidio.

Because Chapala is my hometown and I know it like the back of my hand, I will be spending the next couple of blogs describing the beauties of Lake Chapala, where to eat, where to stay, what to do, and I will dedicate one blog as well for those who are on the verge of retiring and need a little help in choosing the perfect place.

4 DELICIOUS SWISS RECIPES

Although Swiss food is perhaps less known worldwide than its Italian and Chinese counterparts, some elements of its cuisine are internationally known. Cheese and chocolate are two staples of Swiss cuisine and their use in recipes is widely spread. Today I will give you the recipes of the internationally acclaimed fondue, the mouthwatering chocolate cake, the healthy birchermuesli, and my special favorite Swiss bread pudding.

FONDUE (serves 4-5 people)

Ingredients:
1 garlic clove
600 grams of grated Gruyere/Emmental cheese*
10 oz. dry white wine
2 ½  tbsp. Kirsch
2 tsp. cornstarch
Pepper and nutmeg to taste
1 large loaf of bread

*NOTES
~For this recipe you will need special equipment, a heat-proof pot (a caquelon is highly recommended), a small burner, and fondue forks.
~For the strongest and most traditional fondue use Gruyere cheese only. For a mild fondue use Emmental cheese (recommended specially for those not familiar with fondue). As you start getting used to the Emmental cheese fondue you can start combining both cheeses according to your tastes.
~Always start with less wine rather than more and adjust the quantities depending on how the chosen cheese absorbs the wine.

Directions:
1. Cut the clove of garlic in half and rub the entire heat-proof pot with it. Pour the white wine inside the pot and warm it over medium heat without boiling.
2. Incorporate your choice of grated cheese gradually while you stir.
3. In a small plastic container mix the Kirsch and the cornstarch until dissolved.
4. After all the cheese has melted but before the mixture boils, add the Kirsch mix to the cheese pot stirring occasionally. Do not let the mixture overheat or else it will spill from the pot.
5. Add the pepper and nutmeg to the fondue and move the pot to the burner set on your table. Make sure to adjust the flame so that the fondue keeps bubbling while it’s eaten.
6. Attach bite-size pieces of bread to the forks and dip into the fondue. Enjoy.

SCHOKOLADE KUCHEN/chocolate cake (serves 15 people)

Ingredients:
200 grams of semi-sweet chocolate (I like Lindt or Godiva)
150 grams of unsalted butter
230 grams of granulated sugar (I like to use 115 grams of splenda and the other 115 grams of regular sugar)
125 grams of crushed graham crackers
125 grams of ground almonds
6 eggs (separate the yolks from the whites)
1 tsp. vanilla sugar
Pinch of salt

Ingredients for frosting:
½ cup of sugar
3 tbsp water
6 oz. semisweet chocolate
1-2 drops olive oil

Directions for the Cake:
~Preheat oven to 350˚F (180˚C)
1. Melt the butter over medium-low heat until completely dissolved.
2. In a separate bowl mix the sugar, vanilla sugar, and salt. Add to the butter and once the mix is smooth, incorporate the yolks one by one until smooth.
3. Heat 3 tbsp. of water in a separate bowl and once the water starts bubbling, add the chocolate and stir until melted. Add the melted chocolate to the sugar mix.
4. Mix the crushed graham crackers with the ground almonds and add this to the chocolate/sugar mix.
5. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks and fold them into the main mix.
6. Grease a spring-form pan and pour the mix into it. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes.

Directions for Frosting:

1. In pan, dissolve the sugar and the water over moderate heat; bring to a boil and reduce heat until the sugar syrup turns a light yellow color.
2. While the syrup cools down, melt the chocolate in a separate pan. Stir the syrup into the chocolate and add the olive oil while you continue stirring until the frosting has reached the desired consistency.
3. Spread the frosting on the cake and leave to set until cold.

BIRCHERMUESLI (4 people)

Ingredients:
4 tbsp. of rolled oats
8 tbsp. of water
4 tbsp of sweet condensed milk
Juice of 2 small lemons
4 apples
6-8 tbsp. of chopped nuts

*NOTES

~You can substitute the water and condensed milk with your favorite yogurt or add regular milk, half and half, or cream.
~Instead or in addition to the apples you can use berries or any other type of fruit.

Directions:
1. In a bowl mix oats, water, condensed milk, and lemon juice.
2. Remove core from apples and cut into bite sizes without removing skin.
3. Grind apples into the bowl of oats. Add the nuts and serve immediately.

BROTAUFLAUF/Swiss bread pudding (serves 4)

Ingredients:
200 grams of French bread
¾ cups of milk
50 grams melted butter
200 grams sugar
1 tsp. of cinnamon
1 lemon (juice and zest)
2 tbsp. rum
4 eggs (separate the yolks from the whites)

Directions:
~Preheat oven to 375˚F
1. Slice the bread into thin pieces. Arrange them into a saucepan and pour the milk on top. Heat over low heat and as the bread softens break it into smaller pieces.
2. In a separate bowl combine the melted butter, sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice and zest, rum, and egg yolks. Beat until incorporated and add to the bread mix.
3. Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl until they form stiff peaks and fold very carefully into the bread mixture. Turn heat off and pour mix into a Pyrex or soufflé dish.
4. Bake for about 1 hour. Serve immediately with vanilla ice cream

These four recipes are delicious and rather easy to make; try them for a taste of Switzerland.
*Pictures are courtesy of compfight.com