CHAPALA; FUN, CULTURE & TRADITION

Chapala is a magical town; it is one of those towns where everybody knows each other, a town where “ghosts” still walk its cobblestone streets. Chapala is old and modern at the same time and this is perhaps Chapala’s greatest charm.

It seems to me the town has not changed at all from my childhood days; of course there are new buildings here and there, and as any other city succumbing to the claws of globalization, a Walmart and some other giant corporations have been taking hold of the town’s outskirts (thankfully, the town has not yet yielded to the McDonald’s and Starbucks craze.) However, tradition is still hanging strong; this is a place where specialized stores—places long lost in most of America’s metropolitan areas—still cater to villagers particular needs: A “papeleria” sells school supplies only, ranging from a single map of the Mexican territory to pieces of carton and wrapping paper. A “ferreteria” specializes in anything metal: outlets, cables, sandpaper, pipes… A “perscaderia” sells anything seafood, a “carniceria” supplies customers with pork and cow’s meat, while a “polleria” specializes in poultry. Like these types of business there are many others that specialize in leather, fruits, fresh juices, dairy… The old, and the young, still prefer these places over the Walmarts and Office Depots, a fact that is especially charming for foreigners. These places also close during siesta time which usually goes from 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM depending on the store.

Another advantage for the lack of Starbucks and McDonalds is the abundance of privately owned  restaurants and coffee shops; lining Chapala’s main street, Francisco I. Madero, there are many restaurants that specialize in Mexican Food, restaurants that sell breakfast packages, ice cream shops, and coffee shops. By the promenade overlooking the lake many other bars and restaurants, usually specialized in seafood, become completely packed during the weekends with local and international tourists.

In that same promenade, many concerts, art expositions, health clinics, and political presentations are given throughout the year by the district of Chapala; these events are usually free so make sure to arrive with plenty of time to save good seats. On the second side of the promenade, to the left of the lighthouse, many street vendors sell food, “garrafa” ice cream, toys, traditional candy, and many hand-made products: earrings, weaved handbags, ceramics and talavera, “manta” clothing… These vendors are allowed to sell their products in this little outdoor market seven days a week; their prices are cheaper than privately owned stores and the quality of their products is just as good.

In the last paragraph I gave you some terms that are not exactly “translatable” into the English language so let me introduce you to some of this terms. “Garrafa” ice cream is made in a very traditional, hand-made method, very similar to the way ice cream used to be made hundreds of year ago; in a wooden container with ice, water and salt, a smaller metal jug is introduced where the ice cream mix is added; after hours of hand-mixing, a very traditional, crystallized ice cream can be served. One of the most popular versions of this ice cream is the “diablito” which consists of lemon or mango garrafa ice cream, lemon juice, salt, and chili powder: simply to die for! “Manta” is a fabric similar to linen although a little rougher in texture. Manta clothing is usually completely white or cream colored with hand-made patterns sewn into it. Although original of Spain, “Talavera” ceramic has become a staple of Mexican art. This ceramic is cooked at a higher temperature than traditional ceramic giving it strength and a polished shine; from giant vases to lamps and tableware, talavera ceramics can be found in the traditional white and blue colors or multicolored.

Chapala’s cobblestone streets are still roamed by men on horseback, its lake still sailed by one-man boats. Just by sundown the elderly go out to the main square to gossip about their fellow villagers while the young go to coffee shops to find out the latest rumors. On Sundays the main church is completely crowded with locals while at night the main square fills up with children and their families who come listen to live music. And sometimes, once in a while, people still speak about “La Llorona,” a ghost who still wanders the streets, crying in pain for drowning her children in Lake Chapala.